The stock AND the Platinum Slash 4x4 trucks are both setup out of the box geared toward super high bite surfaces like parking lots, asphalt and stuff like that. That is why there is a level of push in the chassis and the stiff front end. Since most of the people buying them will be driving them on all sorts of random terrain and a lot of streets and parking lots, this makes sense.
However, for the track racers out there, know that with a few changes you can have it dialed on the track. The entire chassis package is an awesome machine and is very capable of being fast. There's a ton of steering and corner speed in this truck with the right adjustments. Here's a few initial changes I'd recommend before throwing it down on the track for the first time. I'll post the rest of the setup afterward.
This video shows how this setup behaves on bumpy dirt grounds for example
NOTE: I based my setup on Steve Slayden's setup posted on some forum online. I only change few add ons like motor / esc / tires etc. All technical stuff is same as his setup. It's an awesome setup to start with, most likely you'll stick with it forever :)
outer steering link: front hole (plastic knuckles)
shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler fronts work well
camber link: outer/ lower & inner/ upper
diff: 10K to 15K
sway bar: black
diff: 5K to 7K
install center diff (50K to 100K)
Just doing these things alone will make the truck rotate nicely and provide controllable on-power steering exiting corners.
I'll post my complete setup below.
Be warned it may be long, but worth the read. I'll explain why on some of it. This truck is SICK when setup
SLASH 4x4 setup: FRONT END
Toe: 1.5 (out), set at ride height with a slight amount of bump steer (bumpout). It seems to like a little bit of bumpsteer.
Static Camber: -2.0, set at ride height and measure each wheel independently with the wheel pointing straight forward
Camber Link: inner: #1 & outer: lower, This corrects the camber rise to maintain a level of negatice camber when fully extended. It makes the font end (steering & control) more consistent & predictable throughout the suspension range. Use the #2 position for even MORE steering.
Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #2
Shock Length: 95mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end out to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves steering and helps settle the front end during landings.
Shock springs: Slash 2wd fronts or Rustler RED fronts. Should be the same as the newer white fronts on Rustler. These springs are softer than the stockers and feel pretty good. The Rustler springs are a linear rate and feel a bit smoother.
Shock oil/ pistons: 60wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
Ride Height: Approx 27mm (shafts slightly below level), This will also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers and measured from surface to the skid just below the front of the inner hinge pin.
Sway Bar: Black (9mm in front of hollow ball)
Diff: 10K, mixing to get a 15K feel is also useable larger tracks with bite.
Bumpsteer: Flat: up
Front end note:
If using plastic steering knuckles, use the front hole for more steering. This will be the same as the Platinum with the aluminum accessory knuckles.
The plastic knuckles are acually nice to have the second (rear) adjustment. This hole is good on large high bite tracks to keep turn in smooth and less aggressive.
SLASH 4x4 setup: REAR END
Toe: 4.0 (blue carriers as marked), The 2.5's are good on small tight tracks and/ or high bite smooth tracks.
Static Camber: -3.0, set at ride height.
Camber Link: inner: #3 & outer: fixed on blue carriers and #3 on Pro-Line rear carriers. Use the #5 hole on the inner on small high bite tracks. It improves chassis rotation.
Hinge Pin Location: Lower, Try the upper location on really rough tracks. Reset ride height when changing this adjustment.
Shock Position: Upper: mid Lower: #3
Shock Length: 110mm, Increase the length by threading the rod end out to expose a couple of threads. Increase in down travel improves steering and helps the chassis settle during landings. Very handy on those tracks that don't provide adequate landing jumps.
Shocks Springs: T-Maxx White Progressives. These springs offer a firmer feel and are longer and require less preload, which allows them to work within a happy range.
Shock oil/ pistons: 55wt/ 2-hole, This is good for 60F to 80F
Ride Height: Approx 30mm (shafts slightly above level), This will also be affected by tire dia. My setup is with Pro-Line SC Calibers and measured from surface to the bott the skid just below the rear of the inner hinge pin. Lower this setting to level with the front on high speed smooth tracks.
Sway Bar: Black (flush with hollow ball), switch to silver bar on dusty loose tracks.
Diff: 7K, Try 5K on really tight tracks
SLASH 4x4 setup: The REST
Wheels: Stock that comes with Traxxas Slash 4x4 Ultimate Edition
Tires: BF Goodrich S Compound Tires. Pro-Line SC Calibers, Bowties & Switches, Calibers have also been good on most everything and consistent between bite and loose. Bowties favor loose and offer better forward bite vs. site bite. Good for chassis rotation and acceleration. The Switches are good on really high bite tracks and abrasive surfaces. M3 is good in colder weather and also in dusty situations. M2 works well in warmer temps and on abrasive cleam surfaces.
Motor: Castle Creations 1515/Y 2200 Kv Neu Motor
Battery: Max Amps 3S 9000 mah
Battery Location: rear
ESC: Castle Creations Mamba Monster 1/8 scale ESC with Fan Cooler from Castle Creations
Gearing: Pinion: 20t / Spur: 54t, Larger pinions also add improves control of the truck in the air. Something to think about on jumps that buck the rear or high speed jumps that need a little extra to keep the front level.
Center Diff: 100K, Try lighter mixes of 50K and 100K to get softer acceleration and better turn in.
TX: Futaba 4PL
RX: Futaba FHSS
Servo: Hitec 165Nm
Body: BF Goodrich Licensed S Compound tires
Weight: 3.5 Kg
I hope you like it. Please feel free to comment !
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